Runway that launched teen clothing still going strong 75 years later

April 27, 2004 -- In 1929, a college fashion show changed the apparel industry forever.

Irving L. Sorger, then merchandise manager for Kline's, a tony St. Louis department store, was struck by the lack of clothing designed specifically for high-school and college-age women. To get a sense of just what those customers might want, he paid a visit to nearby Washington University in St. Louis, where the School of Fine Arts (now School of Art) had recently established a Dress Design Program.

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Washington University's School of Art Fashion Design Show, c.1947

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Impressed by the quality of students' work, Sorger organized a fashion show at Kline's for local garment manufacturers. Eight dresses were selected for production. Sales surpassed all expectations.

Juniors' fashion was born.

By the mid-1930s, Sorger's continued advocacy and consumer research had made juniors' fashions the engine driving a booming garment district. In 1934, according to the St. Louis Post-Dispatch, St. Louis manufacturers became the first to market juniors' sizes, such as 5, 7 and 9.

Between 1935 and 1940, the number of local garment workers shot from 1,200 to 6,000. By 1949, more than 250 manufacturers employed 20,000 workers and annually shipped products worth $170 million.

St. Louis was shaping the look of post-World War II America.

Sorger, meanwhile, became a kind of "godfather" to the Dress Design Program, endowing scholarships, scrounging donations of fabric and persuading local manufacturers — who frequently hired graduates — to underwrite new equipment.

The Fashion Design Show became an annual extravaganza, staged at swanky downtown hotels and featuring hundreds of outfits.

In 1941, Washington University became home to what is believed to be the nation's first four-year, degree-granting fashion program.

Fully choreographed, Paris-style show

Today, both the Fashion Design Program (as it's now called) and the Fashion Design Show are still going strong.

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Washington University's School of Art Fashion Design class of 1960

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Though St. Louis is no longer a manufacturing center, New York-based alumni such as Paula Varsalona and Carolyn Roehm have become internationally renowned couture designers.

Recent graduates work for major fashion houses and clothing retailers, including Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein, Christian Dior, Nanette Lepore, Lilly Pulitzer, Nike, Lands' End, Fitigues, Lane Bryant, The May Co. and Federated Department Stores.

And on May 2, the School of Art will present The 75th Annual Fashion Design Show at Saint Louis Galleria.

The fully choreographed, Paris-style show will feature dozens of professional and volunteer models wearing more than 100 outfits created by the program's 14 junior and nine senior fashion majors. Clothes will range from opera coats paired with colorful knitted evening dresses to sportswear, power suits, ball gowns and the seniors' signature collections, each a fully coordinated line.

A jury of professional designers, university faculty and leaders in the clothing industry selects the outfits that make it into the show. Outstanding student designers receive a variety of scholarships, cash prizes and awards.

Last year, approximately 500 people attended the event, raising about $50,000 through ticket sales and sponsorship gifts. Proceeds from the annual show support the fashion program, including student scholarships.

The 75th Annual Fashion Design Show begins at 8 p.m. Sunday, May 2, at Saint Louis Galleria. General admission tickets are $50 and $25 for students and are available through the Edison Theatre Box Office, (314) 935-6543, and at the Galleria Concierge Service Center. A limited number of tickets will be available at the door. For more information, call the 24-hour fashion show hotline at (314) 935-9090.